This is a text version (don't have the pics up yet) of how to produce realistic switches using Splines. Some people seem to have this knack, others don't. So, I figure this ought to help.Before you make a spline switch, (or turnout) you should consider real life switches. Railroads try not to make them sharp, in fact they'd love to keep them as gentle as possible. Except in some extreme cases, most switches are less than 20 degrees.How do you figure the degree of a switch? Why, that's actually simple. Take the base (main line) as one part of the angle, and then your tangent (the spur line). Measure the degree of the angle formed where the tangent and base intersect, and you have the degree of the turnout.Next, you should remember that railroads almost always avoid having S curves. This includes cross over tracks. There will always be a section of straight track between two curves.
Now, to make your accurate spline switch. (Pictures to follow soon).1.) Depending on how accurate you want your switch to look, you should first place a few buildings for reference. You might need to move them later, but it will give you an idea of the location you're working in. Remember, except in rare cases, railroads have to deal with existing buildings when placing a spur.2.) With the Main line set, you can choose to use the straighten track tool. It's not always nessecary, but in most cases it helps. If the spur is on a curve, that's another story and another tutorial. For now, let's use the tool to make a straight switch.3.) Since you have some buildings down, you get an idea where the switch ought be. Now you add your first bit of the spline. Moving back so there's about 1 third of the short straight section behind the point you add, you need to draw the track away and click. Don't worry bout being accurate now, we just need something to work with.4.) Use the straightener tool on any track other than the tangent, which ended up bent. Now you need to work on the tangent. Taking hold of it by the free end, draw it closer to the middle of the track. You have to hold shift click to let go of it, but ideally you should have the outside (that's the part that forms the "frog") rail ends a short distance (maybe one or two tie widths) from the inside rail. (the one that curves away.5.) Check the degree. For now, try not to have anything more than 40, since the trains don't track well. Personally, I prefer 20 or less.6.) If you're satisfied with the degree, then add another section, this one to the end of the tangent. This forms the start of your diverging path and can be either straight or curved. IF you choose to curve it, remember to keep the curve gentle. If not, you need to use the straightening tool on it. At this point, you might have to play with the end of it some, since it could make your "blades" kink.7.) With the main track in place, you can add the rest of the diverging point, forming the remainder of your curve or turnout. When you place the switch machine, it's advisable to move it back from the blades themselves, maybe by about 1 to three tie spaces. This makes it possible to stop at the machine, throw the switch, and continue forward.NOTE: if you use this for a crossover, you should try to keep your switch degree LESS than 20 degrees. While some railroads may use sharp curves on crossovers, due to the inherant danger of the "S" curve of a crossover, longer is better.*EditThought I better explain why you don't want an S curve. Basically it's the way cars react. Body mounted couplers pull against each other in one direction on a curve. A S curve causes these couplers to suddenly change the direction they pull from and can cause trucks to bind, therefore derailing the train.
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