I originally began to post this as a reply to something Ice asked. Now, I think it belongs in its own post. It may run long.Lemme see if I can explain the best way to do this. Depending on what program you use, PSP 7 or Photoshop, it works out basically the same.First, it's always best to set your monitor to 24 bit resolution before doing any of this. It keeps things in perspective and helps you in the painting process.When you do weathering, it's always best to work in layers. PSP does this easily. Also, you should add weathering before you add lines. (That's basic stuff, I know but I figure beginners might read this too.)Ok, doing the weathering should be a several part process, you start with a dark color, preferably about 2 shades darker than your body color. You use it sparingly, since you have to figure where shadows are and where paints will peel. One thing to remember, save for certain cases, weathering gets darker the lower on the carbody you go.Think like this: the higher up the paint is, the more likely it is to fade. The lower stuff, around the walkways will gather a ton of grime and dirt. You may get some on the sides, but it's not always heavy. As you go higher, you dial the color lighter the higher you go. It's entirely possible you'll use a near WHITE color on the roof, it depends on age.Other things to remember are streaks. Along your exhausts, you might have one or two streaks of a blue black. Should always steer clear of "TRUE" black since it rarely occurs in nature. Blue black, or navy blue is best. That also simulates any of an oily texture in the soot.True black may occur, but you should only use it sparingly. A litle goes a long way.Rust: Rust happens, typically around dings and dents and places the paint is peeling. Common places to find it are walkways, roofs, steps, plows, dents, scratches, scrapes, cuts, and any unprotected metal exposed to the air.To simulate rust, you have to remember that the longer something rusts, the darker it gets. However, rust isn't always a simple brown color. It varies depending on exposure. For example:The rust on a railhead after a rain may be a faded tan color, while the rust on a disused track or spare rail might be a dark brown. Also, rust that is exposed to moisture very often, tends to take on a myriad of colors. You may have a dark center of reddish brown, fading out to a light tan at the outer edges. Also, you might have some hints of the original metal. As with the color black, paint rust sparingly. Remember, the more rust you have, the more people will wonder if the engine should be scrapped. (this doesn't always apply to cars).Finally, road dust.Road dust can be simulated by using varying colors of a light brown or even a tinted white. It usually accumulates on fuel tanks, trucks, and plows. Or, in the case of carbody units, it may get on the sides. A nice detail to add, especially on boxcars, is wheel streaks. Wheels throw mud dirt and water, and above the axles on the box car face you often find light streaks vertically. It's a detail you rarely find.
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