Notice to all visitors and members of the Train-Sim.Com message forums: If you plan on using a signature banner in your posts, we would like to remind you that there is a maximum size for banners. That maximum is 450 pixels wide by 120 pixels high, and not to exceed 25k. Your compliance is appreciated. FORUM RULES Problems? There are two common reasons for problems with logging in and posting messages. The first is that you are running a firewall that prevents your messages from being sent to the server. The other is that you have cookies disabled; the DCForum software requires cookies to work properly.
Well I'm new to creating routes. So far I have a single track route with 3 stations positioned a various points along it. What I would like to add is Passing Sidings. I've had a look round but it seems to be one of those things you are just supposed to know, lol.Any help would be very greatful.
First, welcome to the wonderful world of route building. It's quite an addict...I mean hobby .Here is a link to a passing siding tutorial, which is part of a website that you'll want to bookmark:http://www.railpage.org.au/steam4me/trainsim/tutorials/siding.htmGood luck and have fun!Eric
"You miss 100 percent of the shots you never take." - Wayne Gretzky
thanks for the welcome.I've taken a look at this tutorial before but it seems to assume you know which track pieces are used for the sidings ect...I had been using the yard pieces cause they seem to be the only off branching pieces in the builder. As you can see i'm a total novice at this...
Everyone in this community is either a novice or a former novice. We're all here to help each other enjoy this great hobby. If I could make another suggestion, have you heard of or considered Michael Vone's Step by Step Guide to Route Building? If you're getting into route building, it's almost required reading. It costs $20 but it's worth every penny and then some. Here's a link:http://trainsimulatorworld.com/catalog/b506.htm
"You miss 100 percent of the shots you never take." - Wayne Gretzky
Them yard switches have two problems: 1. Radius too tight for most engines and cars; 2. No default right manual switch, need Xtracks to get a right manual 45 yard switch.Best switches for general freight operations are the 10Ds:A1tPnt10dLft.s = 10 degree left switch A1tPnt10dLftMnl.s = 10 degree left manual switch (if it says Mnl, the player can control it in an activity, otherwise it can only be controlled in explore route) A1tPnt10dRgt.s = 10 degree right switch A1tPnt10dRgtMnl.s = 10 degree right manual switchThe corresponding curves are called "end points", A1tEndPnt10dLft.s goes with the left switch, A1tEndPnt10dRgt.s goes with the right switch.Look at the tutorial again, lay a 10d switch, if it's a left switch connect the A1tEndPnt10dLft.s to the curved part of the switch, and hit the T key to flip it. Now connect two 10 meter straight sections to the straight track of the switch, and both the curve and straight track will be perfectly aligned. Then scroll down to the A2t part of the track section window, select any old 2 track section (straight or curved, doesn't matter) and connect to the straight and curved paths from the switch. If it's a curved siding, A2t1000r20d.s for example, hit the T key to flip thru all the possible connections until you have the right one.Then the other end of the siding becomes a simple mirror image, if you used a right switch and right endpoint, use a left switch and left endpoint at the other end.Or if you want to get tricky, connect a straight two track section like the A2t100mstrt.s to the end of the curved double track, and after adding two 10 meter straight sections to one side (a 10d switch is 40 meters long, so 2 10 meter sections carries the track to the middle of the switch), connect two switches curve-to-curve and add a yard off the end of the siding. The thing to bear in mind is that each of the switches, 10d, 5d, and 2.5d, have a corresponding endpoint section that matches the length and curvature of the curved portion of the switch.