Model Railroading Advice

I'm considering setting up an HO scale layout, but know absolutely nothing about model trains. I recently bought an Atlas beginner's book describing layouts, wiring, etc.My questions are: What are some of the better brands of equipment (price vs. quality/detail)? Are different brands of track interchangeable? Is there a standard voltage used, i.e. can I use an Atlas powerpack if I buy a Bachmann locomotive? I read about using DCC, but is seems a little complex/expensive for a small layout (4X8, for example). Is this true?Any/all other suggestions would also be greatly appreciated...Thanks,MC

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RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, DKlemm, Jun-14-04, 05:08 PM, (1) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, zachattack, Jun-14-04, 05:26 PM, (2) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, Xacto, Jun-14-04, 05:53 PM, (3) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, zachattack, Jun-14-04, 06:24 PM, (4) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, rpicardi1, Jun-14-04, 06:55 PM, (5) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, zachattack, Jun-14-04, 07:30 PM, (6) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, Dash9_Man, Jun-14-04, 08:25 PM, (7) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, ASR_Q301, Jun-14-04, 08:37 PM, (8) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, rpicardi1, Jun-14-04, 09:36 PM, (9) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, Richard, Jun-15-04, 11:14 AM, (10) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, railfan4ever, Jun-15-04, 11:59 AM, (13) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, zachattack, Jun-15-04, 02:32 PM, (17) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, railfan4ever, Jun-15-04, 11:48 AM, (12) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, railfan4ever, Jun-15-04, 11:31 AM, (11) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, pstraten, Jun-15-04, 01:53 PM, (14) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, pstraten, Jun-15-04, 02:11 PM, (15) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, Richard, Jun-15-04, 03:51 PM, (18) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, MasterChief, Jun-15-04, 02:13 PM, (16) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, davidloco, Dec-20-04, 09:42 PM, (19) RE: MODEL RAILROADING ADVICE, BN_9402, Dec-20-04, 10:06 PM, (20)

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MC;My questions are: What are some of the better brands of equipment (price vs. quality/detail)? Athearn, Proto 2000 or 1000, etc are all good. Sometimes I'm not sure if you really pay more and get more qualitity, but that is my opinion. More important especially when looking at older kits for me is the motor powering both the front and back trucks and is their fly wheels.Are different brands of track interchangeable? yes they are within the same code. You have code 100, code 70 etc. And you technically can use code 100 on the main and code 70 on the sidings, it's a little more work.Is there a standard voltage used, i.e. can I use an Atlas powerpack if I buy a Bachmann locomotive? voltage in the U.S. is standard. Bachmann is a brand name like Atlas is a brand name.I read about using DCC, but is seems a little complex/expensive for a small layout (4X8, for example). Is this true? DCC would be overkill for a small layout. If you join a club that uses it, you could outfit your egines with DCC and they would run on a non DCC track as well.Other suggestions: find a club in your area and at least visit them. They probably have made more mistakes than you could ever think about doing. Great place to learn

David Klemm
Illinos & St Louis Divisions
IC Version 1.0 uploaded

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I am starting my own HO model railroad. Can someone please tell me what the difference between code 70 and code 100 track is? I also need a suggestion: plastic track with built-in roadbeds or cork roadbeds and track with no built in roadbeds (can't remember what it is called)?

Zach Lybrand

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The code refers to the height of the rail, code 70 is .070 inches high, while code 100 is .100 inches high, or 1/10th of an inch. Code 83 represents about the heaviest mainline rail in use I believe, so code 100 is a bit out of scale, but it does allow you to run older equipment that might have large flanges (Rivarossi for example). Code 70 and 50 are good for branch lines, sidings and yards where lighter rail was used.I prefer using cork roadbed with flex track, the ability to add your own ballast and shape your own roadbed profiles is a plus and it just looks more realistic. It does take more work though, so it depends on how much you want to put into the hobby timewise.Good luck with the layout, it's a great hobby.Cliff

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LAST EDITED ON Jun-14-04 AT 06:25 PM (EDT)

Thanks, I know it's a fun hobby! I used to make layouts on the floor with very minimal scenery. I bet it'll be even more fun with scenery!P.S. Does anyone have some good plans for a 4'x7 1/2' layout?

Zach Lybrand

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This is a modified layout that will allow you to run two independent trains on a 4x8 sheet. It uses flex track and #4 switches. I set up the corner to tie in with club modules even though the switches and crossover were to be added later.Modeling tips;Layout pictured is on cork roadbed. You draw the centerline on how you want the track layout to go. Cork roadbed comes split so you use the centerline as a guide to lay the cork. That can be stapled - tacked and glued to the 4x8 table. Ballast can be added anytime later. Be careful to keep ballast out of the switch points.Use nickel silver track. It will give you much better service and is easier to keep clean for good electrical contact. Solder all connectors on the track. Use insulators where track switches to the other line or when you want to isolate power to it. Run lead wires to power the track rather then depending on it to conduct all power.This layout, including box beam table, was completed in a weekend and is fully functional. Of course, it will take much longer to landscape. But, that is half of the fun of running the layout.The Internet and the various model railroad sites will provide excellent information. Search for the threads on the HO topic for more info.SRV Ron

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I have a few questions:
A) What does "solder" mean?
B) What are insulators, where can I get them, and how should I use them?
C) Are lead wires just wires with plastic on them and a little bit of raw wire exposed on each end?
D) How to I connect lead wires to the track?I hope I'm not being too pushy. I've never built a full layout. I usually just use snap-trak that comes with Bachmann sets.

Zach Lybrand

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LAST EDITED ON Jun-14-04 AT 08:27 PM (EDT)

>I have a few questions:
>A) What does "solder" mean?
Soldering is joining two pieces of metal with a drop of melted tin and lead. Go to your local hardware store, you can pick up a good soldering iron for around $15, I believe.>B) What are insulators, where can I get them, and how should
>I use them?
Insulators are like metal rail joiners (which are made of metal so as to conduct electricity), only insulators are made of rubber so as to cut off a section of track from power, so it may be wired independently.>C) Are lead wires just wires with plastic on them and a
>little bit of raw wire exposed on each end?
Lead wires are regular wires with metal rail joiners affixed at one end. They come in pairs.>D) How to I connect lead wires to the track?
Just slip them in like regular rail joiners, one to each of the two rails.
-Sam

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LAST EDITED ON Jun-14-04 AT 08:38 PM (EDT)

MC's Questions:What are some of the better brands of equipment (price vs. quality/detail)?I have been buying Athearn, Walthers and Atlas for the past 3 years. The Athearn "Blue Box" line are probably the cheapest. They are great if you want to detail the locomotives yourself, but if you are like me and want to get the loco out of the box and hauling trains ASAP, then I would suggest going for Athearn's "Ready-to-Roll" series. I recently got a BNSF H2 AC4400CW from the R2R line, and it is a keeper!! LED lighting, fully detailed numberboards, handrails set for you.Are different brands of track interchangeable? Sure are! If it is all HO, then your fine!! I got some Peco points given to me as a gift about 2 years ago, the set track is "Life-Like", but this has almost been phased out completly on my layout by Atlas Code 100 flexitrack. If you are building a layout too, I strongly suggest flexi-track. It looks A LOT realistic, easy to clean. The only down side, you will need patence when first laying it. It takes some practise.A good rule of thumb is "The more rail joins you have, the higher rish of a re-railment"Is there a standard voltage used, i.e. can I use an Atlas powerpack, if I buy a Bachmann locomotive? I can only speak for a DC layout as I have not got DCC. ALL/MOST model railroad companies use a variable DC 0-12V. Any locomotive SHOULD be compatiable with any power pack. I have run a friend's Euro-star set on my layout and it worked fine! I hope this helps you out mate, best of luck with your layout!! Zach:A) What does "solder" mean?Solder, you need a "Soldering Iron" (you can pick them up for about 15 bucks at a local hardware store). It is a long metallic pole that heats up when you pass electricity though. You then melt a composite metal (I have a feeling it is Zinc, Copper). You can then drip the molten metal onto any wire/track joins, wait for it to cool into a solid state, put some electrical tape around it, and you have connected wires! I THINK(!!) it was in November 2003 issue of Model Railroader. B) What are insulators, where can I get them, and how should I use them?Track insulators or wire insulators? Track insulators enable you to wire your layout into "blocks". They are also known as "Plastic Rail Joiners". Plastic doesnt conduct electricly. Find out which one you are after, and give me a PM...I will explain in further detail how to use them. D) How to I connect lead wires to the track?Again, if you can get a copy of November 2003 (it could be Dec or Jan...I'll have to look it up)...but there is a quick, but helpful tutorial on how to connect wires up to the track via soldering. It is quite simple really! You have you bring the wires up from underneath the benchwork (through the use of a drilled hole). Place the wire along the side of the track, parallel. And Solder it into place, making sure NONE of the wire/solder combination is higher than the rail. Make sure you do it on the OUTSIDE parts of the track!! >Mike Forster<
Perth, Western Australiapacificnational_nr103@hotmail.com
http://www.trainweb.org/aussiepix

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"Solder, you need a "Soldering Iron" (you can pick them up for about 15 bucks at a local hardware store). It is a long metallic pole that heats up when you pass electricity though. You then melt a composite metal (I have a feeling it is Zinc, Copper). You can then drip the molten metal onto any wire/track joins, wait for it to cool into a solid state, put some electrical tape around it, and you have connected wires! I THINK(!!) it was in November 2003 issue of Model Railroader."No! No! No! Don't drip solder into something to form a joint. It won't work.You need to use an inexpensive electronic soldering iron, ususlly 15 to 25 watts. Don't use the 100 watt trigger gun ones. I would recommend a rosin core solder and flux. (Electronic solder. Acid core will corrode with time.)To solder, you clean the parts to be bonded with the flux. Just brush it on lightly. Apply the iron to the joint to heat it, only takes a second or two as the flux sizzles as it chemically clean the metal of any oxides. Don't take too long or the heat will travel down the rail and melt the plastic ties. Touch the solder to the joint next to the iron. When done right, the solder will melt and flow into the joint forming a solid connection. A little goes a long way. Do the same when connecting wires to the outside of the track. Likewise, for connecting wires, twist together, apply flux lightly, apply heat and touch the solder to the wire next to the iron.Practice on something before you start working joining rails and wiring. Use color coded wire so you don't accidently cross your wires.Switches may not conduct current well, so, you will need to run leads up to the track on all sides connected to them.An inexpensive volt - ohm meter is useful for trouble shooting wiring and tracks for shorts and open connections.SRV Ron

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Just to expand a little further. Rail on the prototype is measured in pounds per yard, not in height. This is not practical in model railroading terms, so for model railroads the rail is measured in height. The PRR railroad used the heaviest of all rail, because of the high traffic density. Short lines used the lightest rail because it was less expensive.
So basically for HO scale we have: Code 100 is approximately equal to 155 lbs rail
Code 83 is approximately equal to 132 lbs rail
Code 70 is approximately equal to 100 lbs rail
Code 55 is approximately equal to 80 lbs railFor N scale these values change to:Code 80 is approximately equal to 155 lbs rail
Code 55 is approximately equal to 132 lbs rail
Code 40 is approximately equal to 100 lbs railLike mentioned elsewhere in this thread, most railroads laid the heavier track on mainlines and the lighter track on sidings and branches were traffic levels were lower. Personally for me the best track available for price and selection is Atlas. They carry an entire line of O, HO and N scale track. I've used Atlas flex track for the last 30 years with zero problems. I've also used their custom line switches (or turnouts as coined by the model railroad magazines to end confusion with electrical switches) with zero problems. Shinohara is another manufacturer of fine track products, but they are somewhat expensive. I've never used track from Peco, Bachman or Life-Like so cannot comment on their reliability. I lay all mainline track on cork roadbed, and lay all branch lines and sidings on the homasote sub-base.One final though:
Care must be taken in laying track. If the track is not laid properly you will have constant problems such as derailments. When laying track, make sure the rail joints are properly aligned and both rails are seated within the jointer. A common mistake is misalignment, where one rail is actually sitting on top of the rail jointer. Another feature is to add super elevation to all curves, but do not exceed 0.020" under the outside rail. You can buy 0.020", 0.010" and 0.005" plastic sheets at any hobby shop (Evergreen and Plastruct are two manufactures of plastic sheets) and cut them into strips approx. 3/8" x 1/2". Start just before the curve begins and place a 0.05" strip under the ties on the outside rail, then place the 0.020" strip under the center of the curve. Then just add combinations of 0.005" and 0.010" pieces ever inch or so to support the outside rail. Remember super elevation is almost like a grade in the since the rail should climb slightly in height from the 5 thousands piece to the twenty thousands inch piece then back down again to straight track. Anyway, take your time and you will have a smooth running layout.Take care,
Rich S.

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>I also need a suggestion: plastic track with
>built-in roadbeds or cork roadbeds and track with no built
>in roadbeds (can't remember what it is called)? What is track with built in roadbed? Are you talking about the crap the comes in Bachmann (E-Z Track) and Life-Like (Power-Loc) trainsets?

SD40-2: the best locomotive EMD ever made!

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>What is track with built in roadbed? Are you talking about
>the crap the comes in Bachmann (E-Z Track) and Life-Like
>(Power-Loc) trainsets?
Yes it is. Actually, the Bachmann stuff is pretty good. Like-Like's isn't.

Zach Lybrand

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>Are different brands of track interchangeable? yes they are
>within the same code. You have code 100, code 70 etc.
>And you technically can use code 100 on the main and code 70
>on the sidings, it's a little more work.
>
>Is there a standard voltage used, i.e. can I use an Atlas
>powerpack if I buy a Bachmann locomotive? voltage in the
>U.S. is standard. Bachmann is a brand name like Atlas is a
>brand name.
>
>I read about using DCC, but is seems a little
>complex/expensive for a small layout (4X8, for example). Is
>this true? DCC would be overkill for a small layout. If
>you join a club that uses it, you could outfit your egines
>with DCC and they would run on a non DCC track as well.
EVRYTHING is interchangeable because of the standards set by the NMRA (National Model Railroad Association), http://www.nmra.org/
Subsribe to Model Railroader, http://www.trains.com/. You can learn A LOT.Standard DC voltage is 12 V max. Standard DCC voltage is a constant 13.8-14 V of very high frequency AC.
Using a dual-mode DCC decoder allows you to run your train on DCC and DC layouts. DCC is not really more complex because you don't have to wire up several different blocks. If you do get a DCC system, I would suggest a wireless throttle, although they are quite expensive. My Digitrax set-up cost $180 for Command Station/Booster, but the reciever for the wireless throttle was $150 and the throttle itself was $205.BTW, don't buy anything from Bachmann or Bachmann Spectrum. They make crap beginner stuff. You'd be screwing yourself to buy cheap stuff thinking to save money. Cheap stuff is frustrating to use and it surprises me that it doesn't make people new to the hobby want to abandon it.

SD40-2: the best locomotive EMD ever made!

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For track use Atlas Code 83 SuperFlex track w/ brown ties and nickel-silver rail (don't use sectional track) and Atlas Code 83 CustomLine turnouts w/ brown ties and nickel-silver rail. Buy Athearn (high-quality for cheaper than some crappy locomotives), Athearn R-T-R Genesis (the kit is hard to put together), Atlas, Kato, and Life-Like Proto 2000 locomotives. For train cars get Athearn (kits, but VERY easy to put together), Athearn Genesis, Atlas, Intermountain, Accurail (also easy to put together kits) and other kits (cheaper) and R-T-R (out of the box and onto the track). Also put Kadee #5 couplers on ALL rolling stock. If you like detailing consider getting an Athearn. My fleet of Athearn SD40-2's is as detailed as an Atlas locomotives. As for power, if you cannot afford DCC, get a power pack from MRC. They are the only DC power packs worth buying.

SD40-2: the best locomotive EMD ever made!

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Chief--When I got into HO scale (almost 50 years ago, ye cats!), I found subscriptions to "Model Railroader" and "Railroad Model Craftsman" the best initial investment in the hobby I ever made.I'll bet you will too--check them out at a news-stand or hobby shop.
PaulS

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Old Timers--A little off-topic and into nostalgia, anybody here remember when Gordon Odegard (1950s) and Lynn Westcott (1960s) edited "Model Railroader?"La plus ca change, la plus c'est la meme chose...PaulS

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Well, No and Yes!!! One of my favorite layouts you can build series, was when Gordy built the Clinchfield in "N". That began planting the seed to switch to "N" scale for me at least Take care,
Rich S.

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Thanks for the words of wisdom, gentlemen...I'll put it all to good use!MC

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Locomotives can be used with other manufacturer's transformers.

Denver Northern Virtual Railroad... The Choice of every Coloradan.

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Wow, 6 month old thread drug up once again....this is nothing new.Austin

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